Mauna Kea Style

Some things never go out of style. Laurance S. Rockefeller’s iconic Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, located on the stunning Kohala Coast of Hawai‘i Island, is one of those things. The exceptional beauty of this stretch of coastline, with the snow-capped, volcanic peak of Mauna Kea as a backdrop, invites a deep connection with nature. The hotel’s celebrated mid-century design seamlessly breaks down the barriers between architecture and nature; creating a graceful fusion of the two. The result is an understated yet timeless elegance unparalleled in the resort world. The aesthetic, values and design principles with which it was conceived more than half a century ago were so far ahead of their time that the rest of the world may have finally caught up with them.

Pioneering a New Paradise

Imagine building a resort in the most remote islands in the world, in a landscape of stark contrasts — set against black lava fields and turquoise seas — along a stretch of beach so remote that it was practically unreachable. There were no other hotels dotting the Kohala coastline in the mid-1960s. In fact, there were hardly any structures at all, until financier and conservationist Laurance Rockefeller chose to build Hawai‘i Island’s very first resort at Kauna‘oa Bay. The area was not yet tapped into the island’s infrastructure. There was no fresh water, electricity, plumbing or roads leading to the region. The only access to the site was via a rugged Jeep trail. Undaunted, Rockefeller proceeded with his plans to construct what was to become the most expensive and groundbreaking hotel property of its time, with a final cost of $15 million. That’s the equivalent of $115 million in today’s dollars, without taking into account the increased value of fuel, materials and labor in our modern era.

Long before the term eco-resort was coined, Rockefeller was building conservation-minded resorts in naturally beautiful destinations, beginning with Caneel Bay in the U.S. Virgin Islands in 1956. He was the third generation of the renowned Rockefeller dynasty, an American family who had made their fortune in the oil business. The Rockefeller family fortune afforded Laurance the luxury of personal philanthropy. With a sincere appreciation for the natural world, he was committed to the burgeoning conservation movement in America. He sat on the board or was a member of more than a dozen esteemed institutions throughout his lifetime, including the National Geographic Society, The Nature Conservancy, the National Wildlife Federation, the Environmental Defense Fund, and The National Trust for Historic Preservation.

A pioneering visionary, he is purported to have been the first developer with the foresight to incorporate a residential component at a resort. The initial residences built at Mauna Kea — now known as the Mauna Kea Fairways South — were built in the early 1970s, a few years after the resort itself opened in 1965. Homeowners at Fairways South had access to all of the resort amenities — including the pool, the spectacular views and what is arguably the most beautiful beach on the island. The resulting residential resort experience became the prototype for what has emerged as the gold standard in resort developments around the world.

Formerly a territory of the United States, Hawai‘i was granted statehood in 1959, the year before Rockefeller’s first visit. Honolulu was the longest landless air route in the world, and transpacific air travel was a relatively new phenomenon, afforded only to the substantially wealthy. A renowned venture capitalist, Rockefeller accepted an invitation from Hawai‘i’s Governor William Quinn. On his visit, a small Aloha Airlines plane was commandeered to tour the islands’ for 12 days, scouting potential development sites.

Ultimately, it was an aerial view of Hawai‘i Island that captured his imagination. Perhaps it was her five volcanic peaks — Kohala, Hualālai and Kīlauea, dominated by Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, which soar to almost 14,000 feet above sea level. It was from this vantage point that he initially spotted the azure Kauna‘oa Bay and was mesmerized by its perfect crescent of white sand and the untouched landscape surrounding it. Back on terra firma, he arranged to visit the bay on foot.

The Spot: Kauna‘oa Bay

For decades, Kauna‘oa Bay had served as a favorite recreation area for local Parker Ranch employees and paniolos to swim, fish and picnic. The tiny Parker pavilion where they overnighted still stands, now a cottage at the southern end of the bay. Back then, it was the only structure for miles. The surrounding land belonged to Parker Ranch — still today one of the largest cattle ranches in the United States. Apart from plantation work, the ranch was the primary source of employment for locals. The sugarcane and pineapple industries were dying. Quinn, Hawai‘i’s first state governor, was actively seeking new industries and investment to replace the jobs these had provided. He'd invited Rockefeller in the hopes of securing investment.

Rockefeller and his party made their way down to Kauna‘oa Bay across the rugged terrain blanketed in black, hardened lava, with little else but pili grass and kiawe trees growing on it. Cooling off with a swim in the pristine blue bay, he was transfixed by the spectacular view — the white crescent of beach, the surrounding hillsides and bluff, with Mauna Kea as a sentinel watching over it. This moment was the genesis of the resort. He recognized the beauty of this dramatic coastal landscape as an ideal setting that aligned with what had become his mantra, of sorts, “Every great beach deserves a great hotel.” That this stretch of sand was both secluded and remote made it all the more appealing to him.

Vicky Kometani has been the public relations director at Mauna Kea Beach Hotel for the past four years. She spoke to the site selection and Rockefeller’s conservation mindset, “Imagine that Governor Quinn brings Rockefeller here to find a place that he might consider developing. Of all the places he could choose, he chose raw lava covered by nothing but kiawe trees. The land was useless to the ranch for cattle grazing — it was unusable land. In my opinion, he saw this perfect beach and thought, “I can’t recreate this, but I can do the rest.”

On this otherwise barren stretch of coast, he secured a 99-year lease from Parker Ranch owner Richard Smart for 1,800 acres surrounding the crystalline bay. He then set about building Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, which was to become not only the most expensive, but also the most critically acclaimed hotel in the world.

Aviation Changed Hawai‘i

In August of 1962, members of both the FAA and the relatively new Hawai‘i State Legislature dedicated a new airport terminal at Honolulu International Airport. The John Rodgers Terminal cost $34 million and ushered in a new era of tourism, development, and ease of travel that would forever change the face of Hawai‘i. By 1963, Honolulu’s airport was rated the tenth busiest in the nation, but most visitors headed to Honolulu and bustling Waikiki, popularized in no small measure by the release of Elvis’ 1961 romantic comedy Blue Hawai‘i.

Though air travel was becoming more accessible, building a hotel on an island in the middle of the Pacific was no small feat. At Kauna‘oa Bay, basic infrastructure was established in a partnership with state government, with water and electric lines reaching the site. Nearly 60 acres of lava rock were excavated and construction materials shipped across oceans arrived by barge via the port in Honolulu. A world-class golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr. was commissioned, built using a technique Rockefeller developed for turning lava rock into a base for soil. The course opened ahead of the hotel in December 1964 with a tournament played by none other than the Big 3: Jack Nicklaus, Arnold Palmer and Gary Player.

On the day the hotel opened in July of 1965, Bob Dylan released “Like A Rolling Stone” and the Rolling Stone’s iconic “Satisfaction” topped the Billboard chart. Lyndon B. Johnson was the Democratic President, and the first official combat troops had been deployed to Vietnam several months prior. The number of air passengers arriving at Honolulu International Airport exceeded 3 million that year. Aeronautic advancements had reduced the flight time from California to about seven hours. Hawai‘i tourism was accelerating, as was the ease and affordability of air travel, making the entire state increasingly accessible to sun-seeking vacationers. The timing was indeed right.

Legendary Luxury

A paragon of luxury, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel opened to critical acclaim and lofty accolades. Esquire magazine proclaimed it “the greatest resort hotel on Earth” and named it as one of the top three hotels in the world. Fortune magazine called it one of the top 10 buildings of 1966. The following year, a publication known as Paradise of the Pacific launched under a new name. HONOLULU Magazine’s July 1967 issue chronicled Jacqueline Kennedy’s recent visit to the islands and included “A look at the modernist Mauna Kea Resort on the Big Island after its first year of operation." The recently widowed Mrs. Kennedy spent her winter holiday at Rockefeller’s home in Waimea that year. Long-time hotel staffers report that the glamorous but tragic former First Lady frequented the hotel pool to cool off and enjoy the tremendous view. Celebrity guests included Rock Hudson, Carol Burnett, and Paul Anka.

Enduring Architectural Design

A visit to Mauna Kea is an experience like no other. By today’s standards, the hotel feels intimate, yet at the same time, the scale of the structure brings to mind the loftiness of Grand Central Station. Architectural historian Nicholas Adams noted the hotel was “like a Buddhist temple in concrete. From the garden below the Promenade, it has a kind of grandeur, and in the lower colonnade the monumental cruciform piers and wooden roof create a stillness that recalls the cloister of a Romanesque abbey or religious retreat rather than a hotel.”

Rockefeller’s goal was a design concept that would encourage communion with nature. Patti Cook, the hotel’s docent director notes, “He believed that nature should never take second place to the works of man, as it would take away from the spirituality of the place.” To bring his vision to life, Rockefeller engaged a powerhouse design team at Skidmore, Owings and Merrill (SOM). Today, SOM is best known for their reimagining of the site that is now One World Trade Center in New York City. The property’s singular design epitomizes modern luxury, in a style SOM has described as "tropical modernism."

Using the land as the starting point, the setting and the context lend the design concept its unique character. The seven-story structure was built into the bluff at the north end of the bay, in the exact color of the sand below, borrowing elements from nature to complement the striking beauty of the site. The terraced, concrete building hugs the curve of the hillside that surrounds the bay, and by design, takes advantage of the prevailing trade winds by being sited east to west. While its style may seem imposing up close, the structure makes perfect sense and blends seamlessly when viewed from the beach or from the stunning Kauna‘oa Bay, where Rockefeller first imagined it. In 1968, a Beachfront Wing was added, a separate structure that more than 50 years later many legacy guests still refer to as the “new building.”

Preserving the Legacy

In 2008, the entire property underwent a two-year, $150 million renovation, completed in 2008. It was a thoughtful refresh completed by John Hara & Associates of Honolulu, and Barry Design Associates of Los Angeles. They successfully preserved the hotel’s understated beauty and charm, while adding every modern luxury available.

Notwithstanding these luxury upgrades, many guests are drawn by the hotel’s enduring charm, incomparable art collection, and exquisite setting. The hotel remains one of the world’s most sought-after destinations, attracting visitors from around the globe. Possessed of an enduring allure, the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel is a mid-century marvel that is as relevant today as it has ever been.

Real Estate at Mauna Kea

Through the late 60s and early 70s, the Big Island saw quite a few changes, spurred in no small measure by the hotel’s completion and popularity. Bob Chancer and Steve Hurwitz have witnessed these changes over the years. Principals at Mauna Kea Realty, they’ve been selling property on the Kona to Kohala coastline for 40 years, participating in its expansion. Since 2013, they have managed sales for the Mauna Kea residential developments.

Their office, located within the hotel, sees plenty of walk-in traffic from returning and first-time guests, overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of the place and looking to buy. They have a home to fit every taste and budget – from ultra-luxe estates on The Bluffs, to private homes and villas along the golf course, to the condos at Wai‘ula‘ula.

Hurwitz notes that what distinguishes Mauna Kea Beach Hotel from other resorts in the area is its multi-generational audience. “It’s very family-oriented at Mauna Kea. Families have been coming here for decades. Whether they come for Easter break or summer vacation — parents who came here as children are now sharing their experience with their kids." Since it was the first residential resort built on the Kohala coast, Hurwitz now finds himself doing business with the grandchildren of the first homeowners at Mauna Kea, some of whom are now octogenarians. The Kohala Coast offers perfect weather and excellent private schools and amenities in nearby Waimea, which is just 15-20 minutes away by car. Bob Chancer adds, “Residents can send their kids to school here and they can manage their business interests over the internet and by phone.”

Now in partnership with Hawai‘i Life, CEO Matt Beall notes that he chose to collaborate with Mauna Kea Realty due in no small measure to Chancer and Hurwitz’ deep roots in the community and their considerable local market expertise. “Having watched the coast’s development for decades, they understand the intricacies of each resort development,” Beall noted.

Modern Luxury

Rockefeller eschewed what he deemed the “distractions” of modern life — he banned televisions and even air-conditioning on the hotel property, in favor of the more visceral experiences of salt spray, warm trade winds, and our abundant Hawaiian sunshine. His austere ways are a thing of the past, however. Not only do today’s suites feature sliding doors in wall-to-wall built-ins that hide the very latest flat-screen televisions, but today’s Mauna Kea offers every luxury imaginable. Amenities include the award-winning Robert Trent Jones 18-hole golf course, an award-winning tennis facility, a deluxe spa and salon, a fitness center, luxury shops, and fine dining restaurants that source the freshest ingredients from local fishermen, ranchers, and farmers. Homeowners in the nearby residential developments have the option of becoming a member of the Club at Mauna Kea to enjoy all these same luxuries, including beach and pool access, towel service, lounge chairs, beach umbrellas and signing privileges throughout the resort.

Mauna Kea’s exceptional resort services also provide every convenience to both guests and club members. Their staff is available 24/7 to attend to every need. They handle home management and vacation rental bookings. They schedule spa treatments, airport pick-ups and tee times, as well as maid, yard and pool service appointments. They stock refrigerators and arrange private chefs for incoming residents and guests, for a turnkey vacation experience.

Mauna Kea Today and Beyond

Like a classic timepiece, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel is lovingly passed from generation to generation. She will outlast all of her owners and employees, whose role is simply to shepherd her iconic legacy to the next stage of its evolution. Hopefully, they will succeed in preserving that which is pure and good in Rockefeller’s guiding principles, laid out more than half a century ago.

The challenge, of course, is to preserve the hotel’s celebrated heritage while remaining competitive in a travel and real estate marketplace that increasingly values more shallow experiences. Rockefeller has been quoted, “Mauna Kea is not for everyone, it’s for the fortunate few.” Vicky Kometani agrees, “This is a core, foundational sound bite that helps guide the hotel from chasing trends. We know who we are, we know who our customer is, we are completely ourselves. We don’t pretend to be who we are not. A lot of companies, not just hotels, can lose their way when they start chasing their competitors.”

Back to Nature

In his wisdom, Rockefeller may have presciently anticipated our current need to disconnect from a fast-paced world and reconnect with nature. He recognized that real luxury comes from leaving behind the world as you know it and merging with the beauty of your surroundings. His highest accomplishment was to achieve a sense of place at Mauna Kea that draws the visitor towards the spectacular surroundings, and the incomparable surroundings into the resort property in equal measure.

Over the course of this ultra-luxe resort’s long and storied 56-year history, celebrities have come and gone, trends have waxed and waned, fashions have changed. Through it all, like the perpetual ebb and flow of the spectacular Kauna‘oa Bay that it overlooks, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel rests gracefully in the knowledge that her enduring brand of luxury is just what the world needs now.